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John Lobb is among the most renowned manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that earned its reputation as a core of the shoe industry in the 17th century. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory is dedicated to preserving the traditional production process developed in the Victorian era.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. For instance, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, plastic templates are produced, which are handed to specialized artisans called clickers. Their title comes from the characteristic snap of the knife striking the cutting table. With traditional knives, they carve the leather by hand.
Production is limited, with only 450–500 pairs made each week. This approach resembles bespoke work. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in mass-production plants. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing the soles to be replaced without damaging the upper.
Similar to Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from young French calf hides. Only 60% of each hide is appropriate for main shoe parts, while the remainder becomes smaller accessories.
The line combines timeless classics with subtle refinements. The City II Oxfords, for instance, were slightly reshaped. The Sennen double monks gained refined buckles and a reinforced sole. The Lopez model, introduced in the mid-20th century, received subtle color and sole innovations. Newer icons include the Porth sneakers and the Levah sneakers, which are offered annually in various colors and materials.
Through its commitment to tradition and quality, John Lobb continues to be a benchmark in world-class shoemaking.
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